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Tapay is a tiny village at 3200 metres clinging to the side of the Colca canyon and has to win the best village square award. It has about 50 families eking out a living from the terraces and the small number of tourists who pass through.

It was about to get electricity which most were looking forward to ("we can freeze meat and do stuff in the evenings" although there were dark warnings of "music and videos"). I appreciated the silence and simplicity a few days later when we stayed in a village plaza forced to listen to music blasting out at top volume until 5pm when a drunk man stumbled over the electric cable.